Speed Control

Background

Left Speed Control Switch

My previous Jeep, a 1997 Wrangler Sport, took part in several cross-country trips between California, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and locations in-between. Each trip included hundreds, if not thousands of miles of driving in a week’s time. With so much driving (especially on wide-open western highways), holding down the throttle in the same position for hours on end got very uncomfortable. Therefore, I decided my next vehicle would have cruise control.

Though the 2006 Rubicon I eventually bought was missing this important option, it wasn’t a concern, since Internet research revealed that factory cruise control could be self-installed for a couple hundred dollars and a few hours of horsing around. So, within weeks after bringing my new Jeep home, I ordered a genuine Mopar speed control kit from an independent online Jeep parts dealer.

Preparation
The kit arrived in a cardboard box with large Mopar logos on the side. The box contained:

• 2 speed control switches (for installing on the existing steering wheel)
• 1 servo assembly (this is the vacuum servo that mounts in the engine compartment and moves the throttle cam via a cable)
• 3 servo mounting bolts
• 1 wiring assembly—servo overlay (in case the vehicle’s existing wiring wasn’t specified for cruise control)
• 5 heat shrink wire wraps
• 6 tie straps
• 3 sets of instruction sheets (one each in English, Spanish, and French)

According to the instruction sheet, the following tools were required:

• Complete socket set
• Phillips screwdriver
• Torx drivers
• Wire strippers/cutters
• Rosin core solder
• Solder gun
• Electrical tape
• Silicone sealant
• Small flat head screwdriver
• Modeler’s knife
• Long, narrow punch
• Needle nose pliers

In reality, many of these items weren’t needed, thanks to the vehicle’s existing wiring harness being cruise control ready. This was a good thing, since the overlay harness provided with the kit would have connected in multiple locations to the servo, steering wheel, computer, and engine wire harness, and would have taken a long time to install. The instruction sheet explained how to check the vehicle for cruise control readiness. Basically, if there’s an extra connector taped back to the main engine wire harness below the brake master cylinder, then the vehicle is cruise control ready. If not, the overlay harness must be installed, which requires routing the harness through the firewall, splicing wires, and modifying the large connectors on the computer.

Installation
The instruction sheet was very clear and methodological, and told exactly how to install each component, including the overlay harness (which wasn’t needed).

Right Speed Control Switch

First, the speed control switches were installed in the steering wheel. Some people seem to think that installing cruise control requires replacing the whole steering wheel, but this isn’t the case. Rather, two screws on the back of the steering wheel allowed the air bag to be moved out of the way, which provided access to two more screws holding the plastic trim on either side of the steering wheel. The new switches mounted in place of the trim, re-using the existing screws. Each switch plugged into a corresponding connector in the steering wheel. While I was taking apart the steering wheel, I found an abandoned mud wasp nest, which was further evidence the vehicle had been sitting for a while before I got it!

Speed Control Servo and Bracket

Second, the speed control servo was installed under the hood. After removing the existing evaporator purge solenoid bracket from in front of the brake master cylinder, the new servo bracket mounted to existing threaded holes in the driver side fender. The servo bracket also had provision for re-mounting the evaporator purge solenoid, without having to modify existing hoses or wiring.

Speed Control Servo Vacuum Connection

Third, the servo vacuum supply hose was connected to an existing capped port on a tee fitting along the engine vacuum line. Getting the cap out of the tee fitting was tricky (it felt like something was going to break), but doable. Also, the existing electrical connector taped back to the engine wire harness was freed and plugged into the servo.

Speed Control Servo Electrical Connection

Finally, the servo cable was routed in a wide U shape, parallel to the existing throttle cable, to the throttle cam on the throttle body. The cable snapped into existing clips along the way, and didn’t require modifications of any kind.

Speed Control Servo Cable Connection

Overall, the installation took approximately 30 minutes (including removal of the mud wasp nest), and was very easy. Had I needed to install the overlay harness, it probably would have taken several hours. In fact, six pages in the installation instructions were dedicated to the overlay harness. Of the remaining four pages, one was the cover, and another applied only to four cylinder engines. So, of the ten pages in total, only two applied to my installation.

Done!

A quick test drive revealed everything was working. Interestingly, the computer doesn’t allow engagement of the cruise control under 30 MPH or in 4WD Low. Regardless, my Jeep now has cruise control, which makes those long drives a little more bearable.

Side Note: Factory-installed speed control includes a leather-wrapped steering wheel. Since my Jeep didn't orginally have cruise control, it came with the basic rubberized sterring wheel, which can still be retrofitted with the speed control switches.