May 25, 2011

Speed Control

Background
Left Speed Control Switch
My previous Jeep, a 1997 Wrangler Sport, took part in several cross-country trips between California, Colorado, Utah, Nevada, and locations in-between. Each trip included hundreds, if not thousands of miles of driving in a week’s time. With so much driving (especially on wide-open western highways), holding down the throttle in the same position for hours on end got very uncomfortable. Therefore, I decided my next vehicle would have cruise control.

Though the 2006 Rubicon I eventually bought was missing this important option, it wasn’t a concern, since Internet research revealed that factory cruise control could be self-installed for a couple hundred dollars and a few hours of horsing around. So, within weeks after bringing my new Jeep home, I ordered a genuine Mopar speed control kit from an independent online Jeep parts dealer.

Preparation
The kit arrived in a cardboard box with large Mopar logos on the side. The box contained:
  • 2 speed control switches (for installing on the existing steering wheel)
  • 1 servo assembly (this is the vacuum servo that mounts in the engine compartment and moves the throttle cam via a cable)
  • 3 servo mounting bolts
  • 1 wiring assembly—servo overlay (in case the vehicle’s existing wiring wasn’t specified for cruise control)
  • 5 heat shrink wire wraps
  • 6 tie straps
  • 3 sets of instruction sheets (one each in English, Spanish, and French)
According to the instruction sheet, the following tools were required:
  • Complete socket set
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Torx drivers
  • Wire strippers/cutters
  • Rosin core solder
  • Solder gun
  • Electrical tape
  • Silicone sealant
  • Small flat head screwdriver
  • Modeler’s knife
  • Long, narrow punch
  • Needle nose pliers
In reality, many of these items weren’t needed, thanks to the vehicle’s existing wiring harness being cruise control ready. This was a good thing, since the overlay harness provided with the kit would have connected in multiple locations to the servo, steering wheel, computer, and engine wire harness, and would have taken a long time to install. The instruction sheet explained how to check the vehicle for cruise control readiness. Basically, if there’s an extra connector taped back to the main engine wire harness below the brake master cylinder, then the vehicle is cruise control ready. If not, the overlay harness must be installed, which requires routing the harness through the firewall, splicing wires, and modifying the large connectors on the computer.

Installation
The instruction sheet was very clear and methodological, and told exactly how to install each component, including the overlay harness (which wasn’t needed).

Right Speed Control Switch
First, the speed control switches were installed in the steering wheel. Some people seem to think that installing cruise control requires replacing the whole steering wheel, but this isn’t the case. Rather, two screws on the back of the steering wheel allowed the air bag to be moved out of the way, which provided access to two more screws holding the plastic trim on either side of the steering wheel. The new switches mounted in place of the trim, re-using the existing screws. Each switch plugged into a corresponding connector in the steering wheel. While I was taking apart the steering wheel, I found an abandoned mud wasp nest, which was further evidence the vehicle had been sitting for a while before I got it!

Speed Control Servo and Bracket
Second, the speed control servo was installed under the hood. After removing the existing evaporator purge solenoid bracket from in front of the brake master cylinder, the new servo bracket mounted to existing threaded holes in the driver side fender. The servo bracket also had provision for re-mounting the evaporator purge solenoid, without having to modify existing hoses or wiring.

Speed Control Servo Vacuum Connection
Third, the servo vacuum supply hose was connected to an existing capped port on a tee fitting along the engine vacuum line. Getting the cap out of the tee fitting was tricky (it felt like something was going to break), but doable. Also, the existing electrical connector taped back to the engine wire harness was freed and plugged into the servo.

Speed Control Servo Electrical Connection
Finally, the servo cable was routed in a wide U shape, parallel to the existing throttle cable, to the throttle cam on the throttle body. The cable snapped into existing clips along the way, and didn’t require modifications of any kind.

Speed Control Servo Cable Connection
Overall, the installation took approximately 30 minutes (including removal of the mud wasp nest), and was very easy. Had I needed to install the overlay harness, it probably would have taken several hours. In fact, six pages in the installation instructions were dedicated to the overlay harness. Of the remaining four pages, one was the cover, and another applied only to four cylinder engines. So, of the ten pages in total, only two applied to my installation.

Done!
A quick test drive revealed everything was working. Interestingly, the computer doesn’t allow engagement of the cruise control under 30 MPH or in 4WD Low. Regardless, my Jeep now has cruise control, which makes those long drives a little more bearable.

Side Note: Factory-installed speed control includes a leather-wrapped steering wheel. Since my Jeep didn't orginally have cruise control, it came with the basic rubberized sterring wheel, which can still be retrofitted with the speed control switches.

May 24, 2011

Fuses, Lamps, and Relays

Background
Travel Kit for Spare Fuses, Lamps, and Relays
I like to be prepared, especially when it comes to recreating in this Jeep. I also like to have things nice and organized, which is why I decided to track down all the stock fuses, lamps, and relays used throughout the vehicle, and create a kit to carry as part of my normal Equipment Checklist.

The 2006 Jeep Wrangler Owner Manual has a nice table on page 306 listing all the interior fuses located on the fuse block behind the glove box. Pages 307—308 have a similar table for all the underhood fuses and relays in the power distribution center. Finally, pages 309—310 spell out the various interior/exterior lights and corresponding bulb types.

Interior Fuses
CavityFuseDescription
120 Amp YellowPark Lights, Skim (Sentry Key)
220 Amp YellowStop Lights
320 Amp YellowSubwoofer System
410 Amp RedDoor Switch Defeat
510 Amp RedAirbag
620 Amp YellowRear Wiper
710 Amp RedBack-Up Lights, Rear Window Defroster Relay, ABS
810 Amp RedHEVAC
910 Amp RedAirbag
1010 Amp RedInstrument Cluster
1110 Amp RedSolenoids, DRL
1210 Amp RedPower Distribution Relays, Skim (Sentry Key)
1310 Amp RedTurn Signals
1410 Amp RedRadio
1510 Amp RedHBL (Rear Window Defroster) Switch
1610 Amp RedHeadlamp Aim (Export Only)
1725 Amp NaturalFront Wiper
1820 Amp YellowCigar Lighter
1920 Amp YellowSpare
2020 Amp YellowSpare

Underhood Fuses (Power Distribution Center)
Mini, Standard, Maxi, and "Cartridge" Fuses
CavityFuse/ColorDescription
140 Amp GreenHEVAC
240 Amp GreenHBL (Rear Window Defroster)
340 Amp GreenExterior Lighting
440 Amp GreenRadiator Fan
520 Amp YellowTransmission
630 Amp PinkStarter
7Open
840 Amp GreenABS Motor
920 Amp YellowASD
1040 Amp GreenHD/LP
11OpenIOD Storage
1230 Amp PinkABS Valve
1340 Amp GreenAccessories
14Open
1550 Amp RedIOD
16Open
1720 Amp YellowPower
1820 Amp YellowHorn
1920 Amp YellowFog Lights
2015 Amp Lt. BlueRadio
2110 Amp RedA/C Clutch
2225 Amp NaturalIgnition Switch
2320 Amp YellowFuel
2420 Amp YellowOff Road
25Open
2610 Amp RedAccessories
2720 Amp YellowMFSW
2810 Amp RedClutch Override
29RelayASD
30RelayA/C Clutch
31RelayTransmission
32RelayStarter
33RelayABS
34Open
35RelayFog Lamp
36RelayHorn
37RelayFuel Pump
38RelayHBL (Rear Window Defroster)
39RelayFront Differential Locker (Rubicon) or High Speed Fan (2.4L Engines)
40RelayRear Differential Locker (Rubicon) or Low Speed Fan (2.4L Engines)

Replacement Bulbs -- If Equipped
Different Lamp Types Used Throughout the Vehicle
Interior LightsBulb Type
Auto. Trans. Indicator Light658
Courtesy Lights, Under Dash (2)906
Heater Control Lights (2)194
Rocker Switch Indicator Light (Rear Window Defogger, and Rear Wash/Wipe)Bulbs only available from authorized dealer.
Soundbar Dome Light912
Instrument ClusterBulb Type
Telltale (High Beam)74
Illumination103
Exterior LightsBulb Type
Backup Lights (2)1156
Center High Mounted Stop Light (1)921 or W16W
Fog LightsH3
Front Park/Turn Lights (2)3157
Front Side Marker Lights (2)168 or W3W
Headlights (2)H 6024BL
Stop/Tail/Turn/License Lights (2)1157
Underhood Light561

In reviewing the numerous fuses, lamps, and relays, two questions arose:
  1. Why on earth did Chrysler use so many different lamp types throughout the vehicle? Wait, I think I already know the answer. Could it be due to auto manufacturers’ reliance on numerous generic parts suppliers, each of which uses their own designs and specifies their own lamps? Furthermore, Chrysler lets them use whatever lamp they specify, since Chrysler doesn’t care how inconvenient and nonsensical it is to the end-user? Anyway, it seems to me that rather than using 16 unique lamps throughout the vehicle, a more integrated approach would be to use the same lamp type for multiple applications, thereby allowing the dealer/service department to stock fewer parts, and make it simpler for the customer. Whoa! Wait a minute. After all, this is the auto industry I’m talking about, and Chrysler on top of that. I know, I’m expecting too much.
  2. What possessed Chrysler to switch from using standard Maxi fuses (which can be found all over the place) to using obscure, long “cartridge” fuses in the underhood power distribution center? After all, my 1997 TJ used a mix of Mini, Standard, and Maxi blade-style low-voltage fuses, which have been the standard in auto applications for decades. Now, apparently GM is using short “cartridge” fuses, while Chrysler is starting to use long “cartridge” fuses in place of Maxi fuses. What’s the matter with Maxi fuses? Is it ditto number 1?

Procurement
What I thought should be a relatively simple job turned into a multi-week extravaganza. Actually, it was extremely easy to buy spare interior fuses, since the fuse block only uses Mini blade-style low-voltage fuses, which can be found in any auto parts store or even ordered from McMaster-Carr. Order spare interior Mini fuses: done! Same with part of the underhood power distribution center, which uses a handful of Mini fuses. Order spare underhood Mini fuses: done! While I was at it, I also ordered some spare Standard and Maxi fuses for my custom Auxiliary Power Distribution Center [future link].

Most of the lamps were easy to get as well, thanks to the Owner Manual listing of bulb types. McMaster-Carr carried all but two of them, the Instrument Cluster Illumination lamp (bulb type 103) and the Rocker Switch Indicator Light (proprietary built-in). Order spare interior/exterior lamps: mostly done!

This is where my luck ran out. The rest of the power distribution center uses long “cartridge” fuses, which weren’t available at local auto parts stores or on McMaster-Carr. Okay. Let’s try NAPA. Nope. When NAPA doesn’t carry something as basic as “cartridge” fuses for a four-year-old Jeep Wrangler, I’m concerned about being able to get these types of fuses in the future. Why did Chrysler abandon Maxi fuses? While NAPA had the shorter GM “cartridge” fuses, I had to resort to the dealer to buy the longer ones found on my Jeep. Oh, yeah. I just answered my own question again.

The underhood power distribution center also has four relays (two types; at least it’s not four different types). Again, after lots of searching through their catalogs, NAPA was unable to find a credible match, so it was off to the dealer. While the relays are supposedly ISO compliant, there are still many different types, varying in pin arrangement, electrical ratings, and internal features.

As I said in the Specifications section, anyone who’s ordered obscure parts from Chrysler knows about their total lack of organization when it comes to supply chain management. Not only did NAPA not have matching “cartridge” fuses or ISO relays, the local Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep dealership seemed to have a lot of difficulty in getting them as well. You’d think that fuses would be a normal, stocked item, but again, I’m expecting too much from Chrysler. I gave them exact quantities and amperages of fuses needed, and placed the order. After some digging around in the back, the parts guy came back with a handful of random amperages, which fulfilled about 25% of my order. The rest, he said, would arrive in a few days. As for the Instrument Cluster Illumination lamps (bulb type 103) specified in the Owner Manual, the dealership’s reply was, “We can’t find that part. Usually, we just order a bunch of different bulbs and see which ones fit on the instrument cluster we’re trying to fix.” Basically, they order random parts until they find one that works. Wow. Nice job. Really gives me confidence in Chrysler.

Upon returning to the dealership on the date specified, only part of my order had arrived. Out of what arrived, the quantities and amperages were wrong, even though the part numbers on the packaging were correct! Give me a break! I’m not trying to order a wind-wing for a 1955 Willys Wagon; just some “cartridge” fuses for a 2006 TJ! Why is Chrysler always on the brink of collapse? If they can’t even ship some “standard” fuses for their customers, how can they possibly run an entire car company? Does anyone in their organization take responsibility for their job? Or are they complacent beyond belief? At least the correct ISO relays arrived.

After a total of four separate trips to the dealership spread over a few weeks, I finally had all the parts together. Of course, McMaster-Carr’s excellent customer service and ordering processes had long ago delivered the lamps and fuses ordered through them. Maybe Chrysler could be more efficient and competitive if they had McMaster-Carr run their parts supply chain.

Assembly
Spare Fuses, Lamps, Relays, and Electrical Connectors
Now came the fun part: putting it all together in a compact kit. While I ordered close-to-exact quantities of fuses and relays, most of the lamps came ten to a package. While I now have a lifetime supply of spare lamps, this was way too much volume to carry in the Jeep. Therefore, I decided to carry two of each lamp type, which fits nicely in a plastic compartment box I bought at Ace Hardware. I arranged the lamps in such a way to reduce pressure and the chance of breaking, and padded the extra space with tissue paper. I also printed miniaturized versions of Owner Manual pages 305—310, and put them in the box for reference. Lastly, I filled the remaining cavities with some spare solder, ring terminals, and wiretaps I had on-hand. These may come in useful when making trailside electrical repairs.

Now, I’m ready for popped fuses, bad relays, and burned-out lamps, regardless of their size or location on the vehicle (excluding the sealed-beam Headlights, which are too big to carry, and Instrument Cluster Illumination lamps, which couldn’t be found).
Packaged and Ready to Go

May 7, 2011

Kilby Enterprises "York" Compressed Air System Installation

Here's a very thorough report and review on installing a Kilby Enterprises KE-1550 K compressed air system in my previous 1997 Jeep Wrangler Sport. All of Kilby's kits are fairly similar, so the report should give you a feel for what it's like in any TJ.

This system is one of the things I salvaged before selling my '97, and I plan on moving it to my '06 sometime in the future.